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Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern

⏱️ 8-10 hours
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Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern
✨ FREEAdvanced
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Advanced

For experienced crocheters who enjoy complex shaping, fine detail, and ambitious construction

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Weekend Project

A satisfying weekend make — start Friday, finish Sunday, enjoy forever.

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A beautiful keepsake — free forever. Read online or print at home.

About This Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern

This Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern pattern creates a beautifully detailed amigurumi character using a simple construction: continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, shaped with carefully placed increases and invisible decreases. The result is a smooth, rounded three-dimensional form without seams or join ridges.

The pattern is written for Advanced crocheters using Worsted weight yarn on a 3mm hook. The finished Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern measures approximately ~16 cm tall, ~20 cm wingspan — firm enough to display on a shelf, soft enough to cuddle.

Everything you need is right here: full round-by-round instructions with stitch counts, a complete materials list, all abbreviations explained, step-by-step assembly guide, and a detailed troubleshooting section. You'll finish knowing exactly what you've made and how every stitch works.

This pattern makes an exceptional handmade gift. A crocheted amigurumi carries real hours of care and skill in every stitch — and the people who receive them tend to treasure them forever.

Why You'll Love This Pattern 💛

This pattern takes two beloved amigurumi themes — juicy strawberries and spooky-cute bats — and fuses them into one character that shouldn't work as well as it does. The strawberry-shaped body doubles as the bat's torso, and the calyx on top reads instantly as both a stem and a pair of little ears' backdrop.

The wings are the real showcase here: worked flat in two colours with a picot scalloped edge and hand-embroidered veining, they're genuinely more advanced than a typical amigurumi limb. Finishing them feels like a real accomplishment, not just another round of single crochet.

Every seed is placed by hand with a French knot, which means no two finished pieces look quite identical — a small detail that makes this one worth the extra time.

Switch Things Up 🎨

Swap the red for deep purple or near-black yarn and keep the same construction for a "blackberry bat" instead — the picot-edged wings and calyx work with almost any fruit.

For a spookier finish for Halloween displays, work the wings in solid black with a single red vein line instead of the full picot trim, and skip the yellow seed embroidery entirely.

Want a bigger statement piece? Bulky yarn and a 5mm hook will roughly double the finished size — the stitch counts stay identical, only the scale changes.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them 🔧

Wings look flat and lifeless

Make sure you're only sewing along the straight red edge, not the scalloped curve. The scalloped edge needs to stay free so the wing has real dimension and movement.

Picot edging looks uneven

Keep tension consistent on every ch-3 picot loop — pulling one tighter than the rest is the most common cause of a lopsided scalloped edge. Count stitches between each picot as you go.

Seeds look messy or clumped

Space French knots by eye before stitching any of them — lightly mark planned positions with a pin first, then commit to the yarn once you're happy with the spread.

Calyx sits crooked on the head

Pin it in place and view the head from directly above before sewing a single stitch. It should sit centred between the ears, not favouring one side.

Body loses its rounded strawberry shape

Stuff gradually in small amounts as you close each round rather than all at once at the end — this is what keeps the characteristic tapered strawberry silhouette.

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Materials Needed for Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern

🧶Yarn

01
Red worsted weight yarn (main colour

head, body, ears, wing trim)

02
Cream or tan worsted weight yarn

(wing membrane contrast)

03
Green worsted weight yarn

(small amount, for the calyx)

04
Yellow yarn or embroidery floss

(small amount, for seed detail)

🪝Tools & Notions

01
Black embroidery thread

(for nose and whisker details)

02
3mm crochet hook

sized down for tight, dense amigurumi tension

03
2 safety eyes, 8mm black
04
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
05
Tapestry needle
06
Stitch markers
07
Sewing pins
08
Scissors

— Gauge:

20 sc = 4 inches

— Finished Size:

~16 cm tall, ~20 cm wingspan

— Yarn Weight:

Worsted

— Hook:

3mm

— Terms:

US Crochet Terminology

— Cost:

FREE ✓

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Crochet Abbreviations

All patterns use US crochet terminology. UK crocheters: sc = UK dc · dc = UK tr
01 MR : magic ring
02 sc : single crochet
03 inc : increase (2 sc in same stitch)
04 dec : invisible decrease (through front loops only)
05 ch : chain
06 sl st : slip stitch
07 st(s) : stitch(es)
08 rep : repeat
09 BLO : back loop only
10 FLO : front loop only
11 picot : ch 3, sl st into the stitch just made
12 FO : fasten off
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Strawberry Bat Amigurumi — Free Crochet Pattern — Full Pattern

🎯 Advanced ⏱ 8-10 hours 🪝 3mm 📐 ~16 cm tall, ~20 cm wingspan

🧶HEAD & BODY (worked as one continuous piece, bottom-up)

R1:MR, 6 sc (6)
R2:inc x6 (12)
R3:[sc 1, inc] x6 (18)
R4:[sc 2, inc] x6 (24)
R5:[sc 3, inc] x6 (30)
R6:[sc 4, inc] x6 (36)
💡R7-12: sc around (36)
R13:[sc 4, dec] x6 (30)
R14:sc around (30)
ℹ️Begin stuffing the body firmly, adding more as the top closes
R15:[sc 3, dec] x6 (24)
R16:[sc 2, dec] x6 (18)
R17:[sc 1, dec] x6 (12)
💡R18-19: sc around (12)
ℹ️This is the neck — continue directly into the head, do not fasten off
R20:inc x12 (24)
R21:[sc 1, inc] x6, sc 12 (30)
💡R22-27: sc around (30)
R28:[sc 3, dec] x6 (24)
ℹ️Insert both safety eyes now, spaced 7-8 stitches apart, before the head closes further
R29:[sc 2, dec] x6 (18)
R30:[sc 1, dec] x6 (12)
R31:dec x6 (6)
ℹ️Stuff the head firmly, fasten off leaving a long tail, close with an invisible seam

🧶EARS (make 2)

R1:MR, 5 sc (5)
R2:inc x5 (10)
R3:[sc 1, inc] x5 (15)
💡R4-5: sc around (15)
R6:[sc 1, dec] x5 (10)
ℹ️Do not stuff — flatten the ear and sew the opening shut before attaching
💡FO leaving a long tail for sewing

🧶WINGS (make 2, worked flat in rows)

💡Row 1 (cream): ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across (11)
💡Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 9, inc (13)
💡Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across (13)
💡Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 11, inc (15)
💡Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across (15)
ℹ️Fasten off cream. Join red yarn along the curved edge to begin the scalloped trim
💡Row 6 (red, scalloped edge): ch 1, turn, [sc 2, picot] rep across, sc in last st, FO leaving a long tail
ℹ️With red yarn, surface slip stitch 3 evenly spaced "vein" lines fanning from the wing base to the scalloped edge
ℹ️With yellow yarn, add 5-6 small straight-stitch seeds scattered across the cream membrane of each wing

🧶FEET (make 2)

R1:MR, 5 sc (5)
R2:sc around (5)
ℹ️FO leaving a tail, stuff lightly

🧶CALYX (green leaf top, make 1)

R1:MR, 5 sc, do not join (5)
ℹ️For each of the 5 stitches: ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 2 ch, sl st in same base stitch, then sl st into the next stitch around, repeating until all 5 leaf points are complete
💡FO leaving a tail for sewing

🧶ASSEMBLY

1. Weave in all loose ends except the long sewing tails
2. Pin both ears to the top of the head, angled slightly outward, and sew securely
3. Pin the calyx to the very top centre of the head, just behind the ears, and sew flat
4. Position both wings against the upper sides of the body, angled outward and slightly upward, and sew along the straight red edge only
5. Sew both feet to the bottom centre of the body, close together
6. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a small triangular nose with two short whisker stitches beside it
7. Using yellow yarn, add 6-8 scattered French knot seeds directly onto the red body
8. Check the finished piece from every angle, then steam very lightly if anything looks uneven
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Assembly & Finishing Tips

💡 Working the wings flat

Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, so flat rows can feel unfamiliar. Remember to chain 1 and turn at the end of every single row, and count your turning chain as part of the row width.

💡 Surface slip stitch veining

Work these after the wing is otherwise complete. Insert your hook from front to back, catch the working yarn, and pull through both the fabric and the loop on your hook in one motion, moving in a smooth line toward the scalloped edge.

💡 Getting a clean picot

A picot is just a chain-3 loop closed with a slip stitch back into the same stitch. Keep the chain snug, not tight, so the loop holds its shape instead of pulling flat.

💡 Positioning the wings symmetrically

Fold the body in half with your fingers to find the exact centre line before pinning either wing — small placement differences are very noticeable on a finished piece this size.

⚠️ Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers at the start of every round — don't rely on memory to count.
  • Work with consistent tension throughout. Gauge swatch before starting if in doubt.
  • Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing — at least 30cm for each piece you'll need to attach.
  • Pin and check positioning of all pieces before sewing any of them permanently.

Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi 🌱

If this is your first time trying a pattern with flat rows instead of continuous rounds, the biggest adjustment is remembering to chain 1 and turn your work at the end of every row — amigurumi worked in the round never does this, so it's an easy step to forget out of habit.

Picot stitches look intimidating written down but are simple in practice: chain three stitches, then slip stitch back into the same stitch you just came from. That small loop is the whole picot. Practise a few in a row on scrap yarn before working them into the actual wing edge.

Surface slip stitch (used here for the wing veining) is embroidery done with a crochet hook instead of a needle. Work it after the piece is otherwise finished, inserting the hook from front to back along your planned line and pulling loops through in a smooth, even chain across the surface.

You Ask, We Answer ❓

Not really — this one is rated Advanced. The flat-row wing construction, picot edging, and surface embroidery all assume you're already comfortable with standard amigurumi shaping. If you're new to crochet, try one of our Beginner-rated patterns first.

You can, but it changes the character quite a bit — the veining and picots are what make the wings read as "bat wings" rather than plain flat ears. A single row of sc around the wing edge works as a simpler substitute if needed.

Worsted weight with a 3mm hook gives the tight tension shown in the photos. DK weight with a 2.5mm hook produces a smaller, even more detailed version if you enjoy fine work.

Budget 8-10 hours total across the body, ears, both wings, calyx, and assembly. The wings alone typically take the longest given the row-by-row construction and finishing details.

The scalloped edge and shaping described here rely on flat rows to get the fan shape. Working in the round would require re-drafting the whole wing shape, so it isn't a simple substitution.

Yes — you're welcome to sell handmade finished pieces made from this pattern. Please don't resell, redistribute, or claim authorship of the written pattern itself.

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